Do I need Fast Frames?

If you have a multi needle machine, chances are you have heard about FAST FRAMES! You may have them and use them for everything, or you may not have them and are not quite sure what they are used for. If this is you, this is your post! I have them, but I have to admit I don’t use them very often. But, they are nice to have for those things you “can’t hoop” or are hard to hoop (i.e., big bags, tiny bibs, etc.) Some people use them for EVERYTHING, including shirts. I am a “hooper“, so I hoop everything that I can and pull out the fast frames when I need them for those things that I can’t hoop, or that are hard to hoop. If you have fast frames, then you must have Sticky Back Stabilizer. I got mine from Sewingmachine.com and it’s great! There are sticky stabilizers that are just that ~ sticky (too sticky). I find this sticky stabilizer easy to use and not too sticky, meaning it will easily pull off the back of whatever it is you’re working with, and it will pull off of the fast frames with ease. I’ve had this roll forever!

Here are my fast frames, called the 7N1 Fast Frames Hooping System. Again, I got mine at Sewingmachine.com. As you can see the set comes in a variety of sizes and there are larger sizes available to purchase separate from this 7N1 system.

I also have this deep bag frame for those large items you might need to monogram or applique. As you can see the frames come with written instructions!

So today I am monogramming a simple “H” on this dainty little white linen bib. I COULD hoop this bib with my 4×4 hoop (and I would use an iron on tearaway stabilizer had I hooped it), but I’d hate to mess it up and this was the perfect illustration for my fast frames! I picked out the frame that would best fit the bib and the size of the “H”.

I cut a piece of my sticky back stabilizer a little larger than my frame.

I peel away the paper leaving the sticky back to stick to my frame.

The frames come with instructions and you may be able to see that there is a bend in the frame which will be sloped down. I place the sticky back under the frame sticky side up and stick the frame to it.

I wrap the edges of the sticky around the frame for added security. As you can see it’s not perfect and doesn’t wrap around on all sides. This is fine! The bib is not going anywhere.

I place the bib on the sticky back on the frame and it’s “stuck” in place. I eyeball it for centered-ness (I think I made up a new word?).

I also pin the bib to the sticky stabilizer. This serves 2 purposes. 1) the bib is definitely not moving or going anywhere and 2) I now know where my borders are. Your machine does not recognize fast frames, so it is up to you to make sure you know where your borders are and that the needle is not going to knick or hit one of the sides of the frame (VERY IMPORTANT!!). I pinned just inside the frame so I know my needle can’t go further than my pins!

I now attach my frame to my big frame. It’s ready to go on my machine.

On my machine (Brother PR650), the left arm is adjustable and it will go almost all the way to the left for my fast frames and I tighten the screws so that the frame is secure and not going to move. My machine now thinks I have my largest hoop on, so it’s up to me to make sure the needle is not going to hit any part of the fast frame. I know that sounds confusing but you will get used to it!

I now line up my lead needle with my center mark on the bib. You can pull the needle shaft down to make sure it’s lined up if you don’t trust your eyeballs!

Here is where I check my borders. On my machine you can check your parameters and it will move the needle to any position you tell it to. So I go left, right, top, bottom and make sure my needle is within my pin borders and is not going to hit any part of the frame! If you are working on a big fast frame, then this is not as crucial if you have plenty of room. I’m working on a pretty small frame so I need to be sure my H is going to fit!

Ready, set, go!

I’m now all done and as you can see, the H fit nicely within my pins.

I pull the bib off the sticky, then peel the sticky off my fast frame and pull any little pieces off the back of my bib.

As you can see there is no stabilizer left on the bib. This is the case with all STICKY and TEARAWAY stabilizers. A cutaway stabilizer would be left on and you’d trim around it, but that’s another post!

Here is an example of when I would use a larger fast frame ~ this lime green duffle bag (also from Sewingmachine.com). It would be very hard to hoop this bag because, a) it’s big and bulky and b) the thick ribbon would make it almost impossible to hoop and stay hooped! I would put sticky back stabilizer on this frame, stick the bag to it and pin it in place and monogram away!

For those of you who use fast frames for everything, then this is elementary to you! But, there are those of you who are contemplating a multi needle machine and wondering “do I need fast frames?”. I hope this helps!

Comments

  1. I’ve heard of fast frames and always wondered what they were for.. I have a single needle machine and glad to know I don’t need them :) This really helps clear up some confusion/question i had :)

  2. Thank you for this! I’m one of the ones who has been wondering about the Fast Frames. It seems like it’s very similar concept to the Hooptech Clamp!
    Also, I usually just use the “Trace” feature where you checked your boundaries. I didn’t realize that was a feature you could use! How do you get to that screen to check them??

  3. Awesome tutorial and pictures! I’ve been going back and forth about the fast frames for a while and I think I’m going to get them when my local store has a big sale in April! Thank you so much for the pictures and information!!!

  4. I am curious if you have ever had trouble with your sticky backing after washing. I had one customer say her design (which was an applique) bunched all up and looked so bad she said she isn’t even using the shirt. Don’t want that to happen. So I am curious if you have ever had that happen. I made my daughter a shirt with it and it did the same thing. I have embroidered for years, but have the new 10 needle so I am learning all over again…especially with the fast frames. Although I have to say, I love them!

    • I use medium cutaway on t-shirts! I only use sticky backing on things that I can’t hoop, or things that I don’t want the stabilizer left on – like a backpack, lunchbox, bag, etc. If I’m doing a shirt I hoop and I use medium cutaway. SOME people “float” cutaway AND use the fast frames and sticky back. I did this once – I stuck the stabilizer to the back of the shirt w/ spray adhesive, then stuck THAT to the sticky back/fast frame and pinned it in place. Then when I finished I just pulled the sticky off and it left the cutaway which I trimmed around the design. But, for the most part I hoop shirts. Hope that helps!?

      • How do you hoop a small t-shirt, like 18mos, with standard frames that came with 10 needle machine? I have embroidered on them with my single needle, but just got a 10 needle. So, I am also learning all over again. I figured out how to do them with a fast frame. But, I would prefer to hoop them.

  5. Great tutorial…two unrelated questions – what kind of camera do you use to take pictures? and the lights on your embroidery machine, are those part of the machine or did you add them? I still haven’t solved the bikini mystery you helped me with last week. Downloaded the demo of SewWhatPro? hoping it was my software. Still had the same problem, but not as bad. Just frustrating! Not sure about SWP…hard to teach an old dog new tricks and no time to ‘play’ with it…LOL. Have a great evening! Susan

    • I have a Canon Rebel. It’s a great camera, but I will admit the lighting in my dining room is HORRIBLE and very yellow!! I do a lot of photo editing and “brightening” of my pics! My best pictures are taken outside where sunlight is shining on the item! The 2 lights came on this machine (PR650). I had a PR600 and it did not have the lights, so I think they added that to the 650.

  6. I love my fast frames. I use them for just about everything. I have done several appliques for my granddaughters with the sticky backing and we haven’t had any problems with the design distorting or bunching up. I had looked at the hoop tech system, but for cost effectiveness the fast frames made more since for the time being. I would love to eventually get a few a the hoop tech hoops. I think they would be much more effective for shirts since you can use regular stabilizer with them. I love the bib that you did. Did you make it or order it? Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your website and blog. They look great. We are in the process of trying to find someone to redo my site. Any suggestions? Thanks!

  7. I appreciate these tutorials so much! I’m actually printing them so I can have them for future reference! My PR650 was just delivered this afternoon and I honestly have no idea what I’m doing. My “package” came with fast frames but I had no idea hoe I was going to figure them out until this post. Thank you!!! PLEASE keep the tutorials coming!

  8. Wow, you are full of awesome advice lately! I have 2 questions regarding this post:

    1-Where did you find that bib? I have been looking for one like that to monogram for my baby boy for church.

    2-I have always heard to use cutaway stabilizer on t-shirts. How do you do t-shirts using fast frames if you are required to use sticky back stabilizer?

    • Someone brought me the bib so I’m not sure where it came from. Check out sewphisticatedstitcher.com or embroiderthis.com for linen bibs.

      I HOOP tshirts, but I did use the fast frames for a tshirt once. I stuck the medium cutaway stabilizer to the inside of the shirt w/ spray adhesive, THEN stuck that to the sticky stabilizer/fast frame and then pinned it all in place (tshirt through cutaway and through sticky). Then when you’re done, you just pull the shirt and med. cutaway off the sticky and peel any leftover sticky off. Then, trim around the cutaway! It seems like a lot of work, so I always just use cutaway and hoop!

  9. This post was definitely for me. I just upgraged from a Janome 9500 to a Brother PR600. I keep hearing about fast frames and wanted to know what all the buzz was about. Thanks so much. This was very useful and informative for me. The dealer who sold me my new machine does not recommend FF. He says to hoop everything! I know that there are instances, though, when these are definitely necessary. Great tutorial and pics. Thank you.
    Cyndi

  10. I must say that I absolutely LOVE my fast frames!!!! Since purchasing them, I rarely “hoop” anything anymore unless absolutely necessary. I started out with the 7-in-1 set and just received the jumbo hoop (purchased for http://www.worldweidner.com), thinking this was more the size I needed for appliquing shirts, etc. and it is way too large. I love the deep bag frame mentioned in your post but can’t seem to find it even on the FF site. I’m wanting the largest hoop possible for shirts using the 6 x 10 size designs and possibly adding names, etc underneath and combining designs. Would you mind telling me where you purchased it? Sew many thanks!

    • I got the deep bag frame from http://www.sewingmachine.com. If you don’t see it on their site, call them! I had another girl say she called and ordered it.

      • I went to the West Point store (which is closest to me) and purchased the Jumbo FF. It did not fit my machine…PR650. Taking it back to get the correct size. Looking forward to a little bit larger FF for some of these bigger projects. Thanks again for sharing all that you do.

        • Correcting my previous post that the Jumbo FF didn’t fit my machine. I called Steve @ sewingmachine.come and he instructed me to flip it. Not sure how it’s going to work still, but he’s sending me information. They are a great group of people to work with. Thanks again and I apologize for incorrect info I posted. ;)

  11. I love my FF too!! I use them alot on backpacks, bibs, and lunchboxes. You may have heard of this before, but I thought I would share anyway. If you ever run out or cannot locate any “sticky” backing, you can always use contact paper. I use it all the time. It is cheaper and it works great!

  12. I bought fast frames about a year ago and never understood how they worked, until you…thanks!!!! I tried to use them right after I got them and broke a needle and bent the threader so now I know to check center and also to pin things, I couldn’t get things to stay on with just the sticky paper. Again thanks a million

  13. I use my Fast Frames for almost everything! I realize I probably shouldn’t but after several near breakdowns hooping items on my previous machine, Janome 350E, I take full advantage of not having to deal with that. LOL. I now have the PR1000 and am so loving it! I also love Sewing Machine.com. Every time I go there I leave with much more than what was on my list! Thank you for this and for your wonderful designs! I’ve had so many compliments!!!

  14. Debra Talley says:

    Thanks so much! I got a PR1000 about two weeks ago and have been thinking about purchasing them. At least now I know how they are used.

    • I love using fast frames. I have a Janome mb-4 and have just purchased a Brother PR 650. I hoping I can use my frames on the new machine. I use regular stabilizer and tape it to the frame. I use the clamping paper clips to hold whatever I’m embroidering in place and trace with machine and go. I love them too….

      • Gwen…thank you!! I purchased the Brother PR 650 as well and I absolutely does not like the sticky stabilizer. Took me 8-hours to figure that out! So…THANK YOU again!!!

        • Where did you purchase your clamping clips? I have the frames, but hooped a big bag tonight that would have been much easier on the frames. Why didn’t I use them?…. I was scared about knowing if it was centered or not. This was not my bag and would not want to mess it up. May practice on something else first. I looked at your posts and instructions on lining it up. Do you have any other tips. Just kind of feel like I am going into it blind. Thanks so much!

          • Where did I purchase the fast frames? Sewingmachine.com If you mark the center on your bag, and line up the needle with the center dot on the bag, you should be fine! If you aren’t sure, check your parameters. As far as sticking the bag to the fast frame – unless you have seams or something to “line up”, it’s eyeballing it!

          • Thank you! It worked!! I am curious though to where I should buy clamps from.

  15. I have the set of fast frames I brought last year and I am scared to death of them. I took them out of the box and looked at them and then packed them away…. any suggestions on getting over my FEAR? I have the clamps and love them. I have the Brothers PR620 machine

    • I only use them for bags & things that I don’t hoop – I stick my item on to the sticky stabilizer (which is stuck to the fast frame) and then pin it in place for extra security. The main thing is to make sure your needle is not going to hit any part of the frame. I usually pin the item in place around the edges so I can see where the edges are, then do the borders to see where the design is going to sew. Does that make sense?

      • Aimee Luis says:

        Rosemary, love your blog! This helps alot – have had my 6 needle machine for about 4 months & am ready to make the move to fast frames for certain items…I’m like you, though – think I’ll still be a hooper for shirts, etc. :) Thanks for the fantastic info!

    • Please tell me where you got the clamps?

  16. I would like to embroider the top of the sleave on a childs size sweater however it is too small to hoop. Would it be possible to fast frame it? I have never tried fast frames yet.

  17. Thank you

  18. Sarah Miller says:

    Where can I find a good price on 8 x 25 or 50 roll of sticky backing to use with these fast frames?

  19. Mayme Long says:

    How do you use the jumbo ff on a Brother’s PR600? I read where you have to turn the frame around to do both sides. I am only doing one letter that I would like to be 14″ tall, how do I do just half of it at a time?

  20. Thank you for the tutorial on the FF. I just ordered mine a week ago. Do use use the hoopmaster to hoop your shirts? I’ve used the grid method for two years, but looking to invest in this as well.

  21. Rosemary, I have a PR650. Does that 8×12 fast frame work with a 6 needle????

    • I have the 8×12 and it’s still in the packaging! I’ve never used it, but I assume it does work w/ the 6 needle b/c I got it from the sewing store! :)

  22. Any tips on getting things straight when embroidering something on the left side chest area on a shirt? I used a ff for my first time and it did come out a bit cooked or lop sided. Ugh!

    • I normally hoop shirts. I mostly use FF for bags and things I can’t hoop!

      • I just got my 6-needle machine yesterday. I haven’t got Fast Frames ordered yet. I can’t figure out how to hoop a t-shirt with the regular hoops that came with my machine (Baby Lock BMP9).

        For example, I wanted to stitch a 5 x 7 vertical design on a toddler t-shirt. But sine the 5×7 frame hooks onto the machine in a horizontal direction, I can’t figure out how to do it. If I put the shirt on the hoop so that the design would be vertical, then the side seam would need to be opened to fit over the stitching arm so that I don’t stitch the front and back of the shirt together. (I hope that makes sense.)

        I would love some help!
        Thanks :)
        Karoline

        • You are right! If you hoop it vertically, you still have to hold the shirt out of the way and it’s awkward. I suggest getting a 9×9 Durkee hoop (there is a post on them in Helpful Posts). It works great with vertical 5×7 designs and there is room to add a name.

          • Jean Adams says:

            Do you like your new babylock thinking of getting one.Rosemary suggested the durkee hoop does the machine recognize the hoop r do u have to do a basting stitch.

          • It does not recognize the Durkee hoops. You have to check your boundaries and just make sure nothing is going to hit. It’s very easy! Especially using the 9×9!

          • Thank you for the 9×9 Durkee hoop suggestion. I LOVE LOVE LOVE it!! That and the 6×6 are wonderful.

  23. I am ordering some FF’s, but I still don’t see how you get your item centered on your sticky paper? I understand you mark your center on the backing and on the item…but then how do you line those up without being able to see thru the fabric? Is it just another thing that takes some practice to gain familiarity? Or am I too exact with my centering??? Thank you!

    • I mark my center on my item, then stick it to the fast frame – I center THAT as best I can by eyeballing it. Then I line up my needle to my center dot on my item and it starts there. Does that make sense?

      • Oh, okay! Thank you so much! I think I was stuck on the idea that my stabilizer and fabric had to be perfectly centered….when in reality, just the fabric is the most important. I feel so silly now! Thanks again!

        • Ok, another question regarding centering. Do you just use your arrows on your machine to line up the needle to your center that you marked? Also, once you find your center mark with your lead needle, does the machine assume this is the middle starting place? Thanks for your help. I’ve had my FF for 7 months and never used them.

  24. Jeanie Savoie says:

    I came browsing over from a post about the cloth diapers and then seen a post about Fast Frames and love to read everyone’s feedback. I have the Fast Frames and love them. One little trick that I use with my Fast Frames is instead of using Sticky Back, I use whatever stabilizer I need for the item I am embroidering and tape it to the fast frames. Then I use binder clips to hold the item on the fast frame. Thanks for all the great tips!
    Also, I know this is an older post but I was wondering if you remember what font the ‘H’ is on your bib? I love it and have a set of bibs to do for a client and the initial is ‘H’.

  25. Hello! thank you for this post re: fast frames. I would love to know how you hoop the larger bag, shown in the last photo. My hooping process for bags is quite frustrating and time consuming.
    When you place the fast frame inside the bag, you no longer can see the reference marks for centering/allignment etc. so how can one be sure the bag is straight?

    Thank you again.

    • You mark your center on the bag itself so that you know where to line up the needle to start. As far as getting the bag straight on the fast frame, you just have to line it up with something on the inside of the bag – the top seam, or in this case it has the 2 straps going down the bag you can line the fast frame up with. You have to judge the frame on the INSIDE of the bag and determine if it’s on there straight. I always pin the bag in place to the stabilizer too. Does that make sense?

  26. I have the Brother PR 650 too and am picking up my FF tomorrow! Thanks so muh for your tutorial on these. I am excited!

  27. Sylvia Thomas says:

    I really appreciate your pictures! I have a Brother PR1000 and the Fast Frames arrived yesterday. I was reading their instructions on how to mark center points, but the way you find it on the article to be done is the way I have always done it and I am comfortable with that – still trying to figure out everything they were saying!
    My first project is 17 duffel bags – sewing on the top flap! I realize I will have the bag turned sideways (running north/south instead of east/west). I am hoping that won’t be a challenge – I am using the 4 1/2 by 11 frame and putting team name. There is plenty of room, but still a little apprehensive about this! Any suggestions or thoughts on this and have you ever used the large sleeve/leg frame?

    Thank you

  28. Quick question – I have a PR620 and using fast frames. I am having issues with appliques. It seems like after certain stops it will jump to a different center and start embroidering the design shifted to the left. Anyone else have issues like this?

  29. Kathy Baxley says:

    Rosemary,

    This is GREAT! Thanks! I’m fixin’ to order me some! :)

    Kathy

  30. Hello I have a question, I bought the brother pr 1000 then realized all of my designs are vertical 5×7 designs. Which means I’m not able to do them using this machine because I embroider small shirts for babies and toddlers. If I turn the sort and design side ways then the back gets in the way. Should I use fast frames? Is the 7 inch one you show comparable to the standard 5×7 hoop?

    • You could try the fast frames. I also like the Durkee hoops (9×9 and 6×6) but I’m not sure if they would work w/ your designs. The 6×6 is great for onesies and small shirts but not sure if 5×7 designs would fit?

  31. I just got the babylock 6 enterprise (bnd9) and want to get the Durkee hoops for it but it doesn’t list my model as one it is compatible with, I have an email into the company to check but how does it help with hooping onesies and tshirts? I couldn’t tell from your pictures how you keep the back and sleeves out of the way. Thanks so much! Loved your tutorials

    • On my machine the arm of the machine goes through the neck of the onesie and tshirt. I’m not sure if yours is the same?

      • By arm of the machine do you mean where the bobbin case is held or the embroidery arms? This may be a really dumb question but I can’t figure out how to put the neck or bottom through it. Thanks!

        • Where the bobbin case is. If you hoop a shirt or onesie, when you put the hoop on the machine, that arm should go through the neck of the shirt. The rest of the shirt should “lay” underneath.

          • oh ok. thanks!! I am assuming I can figire it out when my durkee hoop comes in but I was never quire sure which arm everyone was referring to.

  32. Laura-Grace Vincent says:

    Hi!
    I have a Brother multi-needle (10 needle)… I am needing help on how you center the needle with the design. What screen do I go to? Please give detailed steps on how to do this. Thank You…I am so happy that I have found your blog!

  33. THANK YOU!!! I just got a 10 needle and I’m a bit lost! You have helped me so much!

  34. Mary Dunstan says:

    I have a set of fast frames I would like to sale. I paid $350.00 will sell for $250.00. I used them a couple of time. I have sold my brothers pro 650.

  35. I know this is an old thread, but I see a lot of people asking the same question that I have. I don’t understand how to get the needle centered. Everywhere I look the only answer is ‘center the needle’, but no one actually says HOW to center it. I’m sure it is someplace and I’m just missing it, because a lot of people seem to be getting it. I’m just not sure where to look because when I Google ‘centering the needle on FF’ I’m not getting the instructions to center…Thanks!!! Ilove your blog. It has taught me SO much in the past month. I’m amazed at what I learned from you. Thank you.

    • I mark my center on the garment or item I am monogramming or appliqueing. Then after I’m done editing the design before I enter the sewing part of the design on the machine, I move the center needle (which is the needle to the left of the needle threader and it’s the needle that is lined up with your bobbin case (the bottom arm) to line up with the center mark on my item. I will try to do a blog post on this!

      • Rosemary,
        Thanks so much for this valuable information on the FF. I used mine today for the first time, and broke 3 needles in the process. This tutorial answered all my questions. Also about the centering questions, my FFs have a notch in the center of the frame. It is located right in front of the Screw that is used to lock the frame down. My issues was I didn’t realize the BabyLock, 6 needle Endurance didn’t recognize the frames. Thanks to you I do now.

  36. Elizabeth Gisclair says:

    Rosemary,
    Thank you for the blog. I just reently bought a pr1000e. and fast frames. What arm do you mean when you say left arm? Is it the one labeled A or B. Hope this makes sense and also i there a different fast frames for the pr650 and pr1000e or they are interchangable?

    THank you again for your advice.

    Elizabet Gisclair

    • I believe Fast Frames are universal for the 10 or 6 needle. The left arm is the arm that moves to adjust to the hoop or fast frame you have on the machine.

  37. I have a Baby Lock 6 Needle Endurance Embroidery Machine and I also have a 12 x 8 deep pocket fast frame that attaches to the machine like a Baby Lock frame. I am attempting to use this frame for the very first time, my question is how do I put the canvas tote I am wanting to embroider on the this particular frame? In other words, what do I do with the back of the tote?

    I put the sticky back stabilizer on the frame (with excess overlapping), I attach the tote to the frame, put the frame on the machine…what I do with the back material so that it doesn’t get embroidered too?

    Also since this frame is larger than the 11.8 x 7.5 Baby Lock frame, how do I mark the edges to make sure the needles don’t hit them?

    • The excess bag would go under the “arm” or hang down below. THe arm of the machine goes inside the bag. I would pin the bag and place and use those pins as a guideline. Look at the post I did recently on monogramming backpacks.

  38. Thank you so much for all the information! Anyone used the FF for applique designs. I just wonder if the pattern would shift as you have to remove the frame to cut.

  39. I have a Brother PR-620 and found this helpful in finding the center mark of a design when using the fast frames. Hope it helps others! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDbU9fnWQcE

  40. If anyone on here is interested in selling their fast frames I would be interested I have a pr 650?

    Thanks,
    Laura

  41. I am contemplating buying the Fast Frames but I have also heard great things about the Quick Snap hooping system. I was wondering if you or anyone else would know the difference and which one you would recommend?? The Fast Frames are about half the price of the Quick Snap hooping system, but I like how the quick snap has the magnets for extra support. TIA

    • I am not familiar with Quick Snap!

    • Hi Stephanie! I bought my 6 needle machine back in January and the brother dealer I bought my machine from sold me the Quick Snap hooping system. I have personally found that they are great for embroidery, but for the life of me I can’t figure out how to use them for appliques!! I’ve become a ‘hooper’ because of them!

  42. Sabrina Roberts says:

    I have heard so much about your blogs and have a couple of questions

    1. I am currently doing aprons for a restaurant and the pocket is to small for the arm on my melco bravo so it keeps pulling the backside of the pockets in to the arm and is stitching the pocket together would fast frames work for this? Or would it still be to small to fit around the arm?

    2. The fast frames that I have sit to far back in the machine prob 4/5 inches from where the hoop would be so it basically doesn’t recognize the fast frame even though I have selected that hoop on my comp?

    Thanky you so much for all the time you spend helping others ;)

    Sabrina

    • Fast frames may not help if the pocket is that small. I can’t even fit pocket t-shirts (like Comfort Covers) on my fast frames and get inside. I have to stitch them shut.

  43. Ashton Ricks says:

    So I’m totally lost at this but think it would do wonders for my with learning my new 10 needle. Does it snap into an existing frame (A,B,C?) or just straight on your machine in place of the frame?

    • My machine only has 1 frame – it would connect to the biggest one maybe? On my 6 needle it’s about as big as the 6×12 hoop position if that makes sense.

  44. Ok, my question is pobably silly, but I have a 2 small home embroidery machines, Brother se400 and a Singer Quintet. Will the fast frames work on either machine?

Speak Your Mind

*