Disclaimer: The following are stabilizers that I (Rosemary) use. There are GOBS of stabilizers out there and lots of different brands, types, shapes, sizes, colors, weights, etc…. These are the ones I like to buy so I’m posting about them!
For those of you who have been doing embroidery forever, you might find this post boring! But, for those of you who are looking to get in to embroidery or are just starting out and learning, then this post is for you. As I’ve said before, I taught myself machine embroidery and “figured” stabilizers out mostly with trial and error (and messing up a time or two). I get lots of questions about stabilizer and see it a lot on Facebook, so here goes!!
#1. Sticky Back Stabilizer. I’m not going to elaborate too much on this one since I just did a post on this stabilizer and it’s use with Fast Frames ~ http://appliquecafeblog.com/fast-frames/. Basically it is used for any item you can’t hoop. Examples would be: backpacks, lunch boxes, ribbon, market totes, etc. Some people use it for everything but I only use it for the mentioned items – basically things that you a) can’t hoop and b) you do not want stabilizer left on when you’re done (it peels away). You typically hoop the sticky with the paper still on (or stick it to your fast frames) and then stick your item to the sticky (score the paper and peel it away) and pin it in place. Again, see the fast frames post for more details. I buy mine from Sewingmachine.com. This is a commercial roll and very affordable.
#2. Medium Cutaway ~ This is Sulky Brand (Medium Cutaway) Cutaway Plus. I usually buy it with 50% off coupons from Joann. I like the commercial cutaway from Sewingmachine.com, but I sometimes use Sulky for Applique Cafe samples (with a layer of commercial underneath) because it’s a brighter white and makes a good white background for my sample pictures. I’ve used Sulky since I first started doing embroidery so that’s also why I like to keep it around! I also like Sulky because I can buy it locally from Hancocks or Joann and I can usually buy it with a coupon or on sale!
#3. Medium Cutaway ~ this is the commercial roll from Sewingmachine.com. It’s very affordable and this size is great for your 5×7 or 9×9 hoop (see this post on the 9×9 hoop). I buy the 2.2 oz and it is medium cutaway. You won’t believe the great prices on the commercial stabilizer!!
#4. Medium Cutaway ~ Precut Squares from Sewingmachine.com. I believe these are 2.5 oz and I also have the 2.2 oz which is a little lighter. These are great for your 4×4 hoop! They also sell other sizes and weights in precut. Just search “precut” for all of the precut stabilizer options (no show mesh, light tearaway, etc.) As you can see below, 250 pieces for $16.95 – great price! That’s like 7 cents a shirt ~ 250 shirts!!
MORE ON CUTAWAY ~ I use cutaway on all of my tshirts. I am a “hooper” so I hoop all shirts and use medium cutaway. (See this post on hooping). Basically you would use cutaway on anything you don’t mind leaving stabilizer on, because you do “cut it away” from around the applique or monogram! You would not use cutaway on a bib or towel, because you would not want it left on there when you’re done! I find that cutaway gives you great support too.
#5. Iron on Tearaway Stabilizer ~ It is what it says.. You iron it on, then tear it away once you’re done! I use iron on tearaway on towels, blankets, plush items, lovies, bibs, burp cloths, etc. It’s basically like paper and once side is shiny. You iron on the paper side and it sticks to your item. When you’re done, you just pull it off. I don’t use it a whole lot, so I usually buy this Sulky brand from Joann with my 50% off coupon.
#6. Solvy ~ Solvy is the stuff that is a “topper” stabilizer for plush items such as towels, blankets, terry bibs, minky dot anything, etc. When I use iron on tearaway, it’s typically something I’d need Solvy for too. It acts as a topper so that your monogram (thread) will not sink in to the item. I learned this by monogramming a plush baby blanket and did not use anything on top. The monogram got lost down in the fluff! It feels sort of like a textured saran wrap. Solvy is water soluble too and the instructions state that it can be removed by submerging in water. However, like the tearaway I just peel/pull it off when I’m done. Like the tearaway, I don’t use a ton of it so I typically buy a roll or two of Sulky brand with my 50% off Joann coupon. You can use solvy several different ways – you can hoop it with your item or you can lay it on top of your embroidery area and pin it in place.
I monogrammed several towels today so here are a few pictures using the iron on tearaway and Solvy. First I’m doing a kitchen towel. I don’t want stabilizer left on the back of the towel when I’m done so I’m using an iron on tearaway stabilizer. I cut a piece the size of my hoop and iron it on the back where the monogram will go.
This kitchen towel is pretty flat (not fluffy), but it was a tad bumpy and “waffle weave” so I decided a layer of solvy would not hurt! As you can see the monogram is sewing on top of the solvy. I hooped the solvy too.
Now I’m doing a bath hand towel, so again I’m using the iron on tearaway because I do not want stabilizer left on the back of my towel. I iron it on the back the size of my hoop over the area that will be monogrammed.
If I were to monogram this without solvy, the thread would get lost and buried down in the loops.
As you can see below the monogram is sewing on top of the solvy, therefore on top of the loops of the towel. Note: I like to use a fill stitch monogram when doing towels versus a satin stitch. That’s just my personal preference!
Other than Heat N Bond Lite (see this post) and Sulky KK5000 Spray Adhesive (see Hooping 101 post ~ I use it to stick my cutaway to my shirt before hooping) and a lint brush, these are the only “products” I typically use. I post last week about needles and other than scissors, measuring tape and my iron, that’s about it! I can do another post soon on embroidery thread and bobbins! FYI – I use Fil-Tec’s Magnetic Core Bobbins from Sewingmachine.com. You can buy a box of 100 for like $28.00. 100 bobbins lasts me a long time!
I hope this helps those of you who are thinking about embroidery or just starting out. Like I said, there are TONS of stabilizers out there and there are several that I simply don’t use. You kind of have to figure out what you need and like and stick with them. The commercial stabilizers are priced so great so I buy them on the stabilizers I use the most. I also did a post last week on Comfort Cover (see the post here). It’s not really a stabilizer, but more an “extra” thing you can add to your finished product!
If you have any other post ideas for “beginners”, please let me know!
I just wanted you to know I really appreciate these posts you’ve been doing! I’m not super new to machine embroidery, but it’s always helpful to read other people’s personal preferences. Plus I’ve learned new things reading through your tutorials! Again, thanks for taking the time to do them!
Thank you so much for your post! I got my machine last july and am totally teaching myself everything about it. Instructions didn’t come with how to hoop, stablizers, thread and needles so THANK YOU!!!!
Hi,
when making iron on appliques with the embroidery machine what type of stabilizer do you use to make the applique. Do you make your applique directly on the stabilizer and cut away or tear away the stabilizer, how do you avoid have the pieces of stabilizer from showing around the edge.
thanks so much
I have never done iron on appliques, but there is a stabilizer called Stiffy (Sulky) that I think you hoop, do the applique on and then tear it away. I have a pack of it but I’ve never used it!
Love this and have been looking for a new magnet bobbin supplier! Perfect!
Is there a certain brand you use?
I use the Fil-Tec ones from sewingmachine.com!
I love these bobbins.
I’m a newbie to embroidery & appliqué. Bought a Brother single needle for Christmas & have been following your blog for weeks trying to learn the ‘tried & true’ methods. Thank you for taking the time to share your proven procedures with others. The Applique This and That FB page is awesome as well; what a great group of ladies!
I can see that appliqué & font files can quickly get out of hand. Could you share your method for organizing the digital files?
Many Thanks!
I have a folder on my computer that contains all of my design files. Inside are tons of subfolders where I used to save each design in it’s own file. I also have a file for Embroidery Boutique designs, and inside that folder are subfolders (Easter, Christmas, etc. all from EB). There are tons of ways to organize your designs, but maybe by digitizer?
This may be such a juvenile question…but what is the difference between a fill stitch monogram and a satin stitch monogram?
This post is worth its weight in gold….thanks so much for answering so many questions and being so specific!
Hi Rosemary!
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your method of using HNBL for applique b/c I had a hard time getting the spray adhesive to completly wash away (after washing it attracted the lint and these yucky, dirty little balls were all over the top of my design and the surrounding fabric). I would like to try to use the medium cutaway on the back (I have been using the iron on tear away) but I’m worried about having the same issue with the spray adhesive. So, do you have that problem? Do you spray lightly?? Do you recommend spraying the stablizer rather than the fabric? Do you wash your designs before adhering the gentle backing or not? Any insight would be appreciated
I definately think your blog is the best place for beginners such as myself, thank you!
Hilary
I spray the stabilizer away from the shirt – usually on the floor or in a box. I don’t use it on fabric but if I did – same thing, in a box away from the shirt. I don’t prewash anything!
I would hoop sticky stabilizer and stick the swimsuit to it, and I would also use solvy on top!
My question is about the sticky back stabilizer. After reading this blog plus the fast frames. I am guessing it would be only good for people with the multi needle machine. I have the Brother 2500d. Just want to be sure I am understanding this right.
Thanks for all the info. I have been doing embroidery for about 3 years just as a hobby but recently a children’s boutique has asked me to do things and I want it to look as professional as possible. So I appreciate all the advice.
Elizabeth
Anyone can use sticky back – if you have a regular machine you can hoop it, then score the paper side to reveal the sticky and stick anything to it to monogram or applique. It’s good for monogramming ribbon, lunchboxes, backpacks – anything you can’t hoop!
Have you ever used the Coats Polyester Astra bobbins? I have been using Nebs but I’m already putting in an order at Sewingmachine.com so I wanted to just orders some that they carry. I know that you use the Fil-Tec magnetic bobbins but will those work in a regular Viking-Hus embroidery machine? Thanks!
I have never used those! You might ask them if the Fil Tec would go in any machine.
I use the tearaway stablilizer but have little white fringe when i tear it away. Tried the water soluble , but but it tore away. Any suggestions?
I only use medium cutaway on shirts. I do use iron on tearaway on towels and it pulls away nicely!
Hi. I’m very new to embroidery and I have only purchased the tear away so far. Could you please tell me why you like the cut away better than the tear away for clothing? I looked at the cut away but was afraid it would leave rough edges that would scratch. Thanks for any advice.
I think cutaway gives the thin shirt extra support for the stitches. You can use Comfort Cover or something similar on the back of the applique to cover the stitching. It’s not scratchy to my kids!
Thank you.
How do you know which size bobbins to get for your machine? Mine is a janome 350e. By the way I Love your designs and have actually learned a few things tonight thanks! I hope to better my business with them.
I would ask where you bought it, or look in the manual? I am not familiar with Janome!
First of all, thank you for these wonderful posts!! I have recently started monogramming and your posts have been infinitely helpful! I have a question about iron on vs the sticky stabilizer. I have not used iron on yet, and wondered if you would mind sharing why you prefer it for towels, burps, etc over the sticky back.
Thanks again!
betsy
I think for a couple of reasons – it peels off easier especially on towels. And, I hoop towels and burp cloths so the iron on is better for hooping. If I weren’t hooping them, then I’d use sticky!
Thank you!!
Rosemary,
I have a customer who has brought me a patch that used to have the iron on stabilizer on the back so she could just iron it on a dress and later (once the holiday had passed) she would remove it. I am unfamiliar with this method but am trying to be kind and help her. Do you know what they had on it or have I been totally confusing? All I have ever used is iron-on tear away. I would appreciate any advice or wisdom!!
Maybe she was using something like Heat N Bond Lite or Wonder Under? You can use it to fuse fabric together. But, not sure how easy it is to remove?
Thanks so much Rosemary. No words can thank you enough for all that you have taught me (thru your blog, applique this n that, ect)!!! Thank you for always being so kind and happily helpful!
Thank you so much for these tutorials and help posts…I live 2 hours away from a dealer and they seldom give classes. I have been able to take your instructions and produce successful products…Rosemary you are on my hero list!
Aww thanks!! Glad I was of help!
What do you recommend using to clean the gunk off of the needles after using sticky back? Thank you for this blog and I look forward to the conference.
I would probably just use alcohol and a qtip or cotton ball. What kind of sticky back are you using? Some is probably sticker than others. I use the commercial from Sewingmachine.com and it’s not too sticky at all.
Since Joann has stopped stocking the 17″ x 5yd rolls of Sulky tear easy stabilizer, I started doing some research on other options. After reading your comments about only using cutaway on your tee’s, I was sondering about how you deal with the cutaway “shadow” from the back showing through on your white shirts. I don’t have access to the Monag brand shirts and currently only use commercial off the shelf (Old Navy (w/coupon), Cherokee & Garanimals) brands. Your finished product always looks fantastic and was wondering if I should invest in some pre-cut squares.
You might try the precut squares – I would not get anything over 2.5 oz. I have always used cutaway!
Rosemary,
Do you ever use iron on medium cutaway on t-shirts?
I think I tried it once, but I was not too good at getting it to stick! I use Sulky KK2000 spray adhesive to stick the medium cutaway to my shirt so I can hoop.
I don’t usually make comments, but wanted to thank you for this post. I was going to go buy an expensive book for beginners and thought I would “Google” one more time. I have you now in my FAVS to see what you have going on. I truly appreciate it. I just got my first EXPENSIVE machine and learned on a Brother P-150 I bought used. I think I am now on to my new addictive hobby, hahaha and you are there to help. Thanks again!!!